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 Just
outsideNew England series
America's most perfect
village: A Cooperstown
NY vacation brings out the true meaning of rest and relaxation
(and lots of fun!)
by Eric H.
There was an older man sitting with
his wife on a bench at Lakefront Park. The sun was going down,
and Otsego Lake couldn't have looked any more beautiful with
its pristine color of the day --limestone -- and the gentle rolling
green hills framing the body of water. The man from Georgia,
who appeared to be wordly, opened his tired eyes and said, "You
know, this is nice."
He said it as if this was the best
placed he ever visited. My wife and I nodded, in agreement, telling
him that we visit Cooperstown every year. We said that it was
indeed the greatest place we have ever visited, and that, in
no way, was based on being a tourist. Without living there, we
thought, it is our second home.
Cooperstown may be a tourist destination,
but ultimately it is small-town America at its most beautiful.
Seventy miles southwest of Albany, N.Y., and 45 miles southeast
of Utica, N.Y., Cooperstown is a place where people proudly live
in well-maintained homes, and close-knit family-oriented neighborhoods
--close to Otsego Lake and the toy village-like charm of Main
St. From the big but not ostentatious homes on Nelson Ave. and
Pine Blvd. to the peaceful tree-lined residential streets like
Beaver, Eagle, Delaware and Elm, Cooperstown never overwhelms
you. It is not about a honky-tonk, traffic laden, and let's-see-how-much-
we- can- buy mentality. Rather, Cooperstown is an authentic village void of
corporate America leanings, fast food chains, and most importantly,
stress. You can see the pride of the people, be it a long-time
Cooperstown native viewing the pleasing sunrise above the scenic
Susquehanna River, or the new residents trading the Big Apple
rat race for a walk with the family and an eternal small-town
smile to the world.
The Village appears
to be Norman Rockwell fully realized, in living color. Three
elderly brothers walk the streets in baseball clothing, as close
as can be. Little children stare, for extended amounts of time,
at the range of baseball memorabilia at stores. Mothers walk
their babies down "Main Street USA" and fathers see
their boyhood baseball heroes through the windows of their souls--first
their eyes, then beyond the glass displays in The Baseball Hall
of Fame and Museum. Romance indeed lives, not in a Shakespearian
sense, but in "It's a Wonderful Life" way--small town
America coming together. Perhaps
James Fenimore Cooper said it best in 1837, about his beloved
surroundings: "Lying, as it does, off the great routes,
the village of Cooperstown is less known than it deserves to
be. Few persons visit it, without acknowledging the beauties
of its natural scenery, and the general neatness and decency
of the place itself. ... Everything shows a direction
towards ... an improving civilization."
A Sunday morning in
church on peaceful Elm St., a seat in the Adirondack chair overlooking
Otsego Lake at the Blue Mingo Grill, or a walk--just a walk--
is enough to inspire sunshine in one's soul that is brighter
than the sun. There may be only
one traffic light in town, but no matter where you spend you
time in this quaint village, the green light is always on to
have a great time.
The Village takes care of its residents
quite well. Sometimes towns with tourists lose vision of the
people who live in town, all in the name of the mighty buck.
This is not the case in Cooperstown, as can be well evidenced
by community pride and services often seen in larger communities
-- for example, the highly developed, state-of-the-art Bassett
Healtcare (a network of three hospitals and 21 health care facilities
located across Central New York, with the main facility in Cooperstown)
and the modern Clark Sports Center, which offers residents and
visitors comprehensive recreational opportunities ranging from
a swimming pool to a well laid out workout area.
Tourism does boom in this quaint, friendly
small town, as baseball souvenir shops have grown considerably
over the past 15 years to align with the National Baseball Hall
of Fame and Museum's stately and historical presence on Main
St. Thousands of families visit the Hall of Fame every summer
crowding the streets in a sea of happiness, ice cream, and wide-eyed,
kid-like wonderment on how a small town can bring such big joy.
The city and suburbs just can't do this.
One of the great testaments to a community
is never feeling like you've completely walked the entire community,
no matter how many times you have strolled the area. The splendid
and myriad Victorians gracefully lining Chestnut St. deserve
more than one look. Turning Chestnut St. onto Main St. and seeing
the colorful hanging baskets, wide sidewalks, well-maintained
interesting and colorful shops needs to be retraced at least
10 or 20 times a day.
On the corner of Main and Chestnut
Sts. is a splendid and inviting introduction to the town: Schneider's
Bakery. A long-time Cooperstown favorite, Schneider's has the
heavenly smell of donuts (far better than those chain stores
offering the slightly fresh version) and other handmade baked
goods piercing through the old fashioned windows.On the Chestnut
St. side, bakers can be seen through the window making their
sugar-themed magic. Inside is a comfortable little shop that
looks the way it did many years ago. A few doors down from Schneider's,
Hubbell's Real Estate displays inviting affordable-to-extravagant
Cooperstown real estate offerings in its window, drawing myriad
couples considering a move to a simpler life.
The shops spanning a few blocks on
Main St. represent individual slices of locally-owned Americana.
The Cooperstown General Store is huge and carries everything
from socks to Adirondack chairs. The help is always friendly
and emphasizes service -- the way its predecessors McCrory's
and Kresge's conducted their business in this exact location.
Davidson's Jewelry/Augur's Bookstore also favors service. Whether
it is a wedding diamond ring or a book written by Yogi Berra,
the staff makes sure to help the customer. In its display window,
there are books on how Walmart is destroying America, but you
would never know it by the way locals and tourists support local
businesses on Main St. Down the street the Willis Monie bookstore
has books piled up to the ceiling. It is a fascinating trip back
in time, including that old book smell we remember from elementary
school. For women, Ellsworth and Sill brings back a nice selection
of women's traditional clothing in a nice, unpressured atmosphere.
The older women managing the store and the racks of discounted
clothing at the outdoor entrance make for a warm experience.
While your significant other shops
at Ellsworth and Sill, a short walk to National Pastime is mandatory.
National Pastime has a marvelous collection of baseball art work,
photographs, cards, prints, clothing and more. For the baseball
fan, this small shop with a great layout and detail to the history
of the game will give the true baseball fan goosebumps. It's
sort of the retail version of the National Baseball Hall of Fame
and Museum, as the history of baseball merchandise is well displayed.
The owner has seemingly been there forever, is deeply into his
profession, and creates a plesant atmopshere for the casual-to-serious
baseball fan.
Across the street isDanny's Market,
which celebrates the glory of community-oriented food shopping
in a small, old-fashioned store, where, somehow, one can find
anything. The anti-supermarket superstore, Danny's has a beautiful
green and tan awning out front, and inside, an impressive deli
counter, on the premise hearth-cooked breads, delicious baked
goods, and a few seats to eat while reading the paper under the
ceiling fans.
Doubleday Field, one of the best kept
baseball fields known, is a great place to catch amateur baseball
games for free, all day during the summer. The combination of
sun, charming village homes, churches and trees surrounding the
park, the picture-perfect green grass on the field, an old-fashioned
scoreboard, and some baseball being played by people truly interested
in the game, makes for a relaxing, slow-pace-in-the-best-sense
afternoon.
Before, during or after the game, there
are well-run Village ice cream shops to enhance your Cooperstown
stay, incuding the Red Nugget (a nice selection of Hershey's
ice cream) and Carmen Esposito's Italian Ices serving addictive
flavored ices, homemade ice cream and gelati -- root beer with
vanilla gelati is the recommended choice.
The National Baseball Hall of Fame
and Museum, one of the great treasures in our country, resides
proudly on Main Street in a stately large, brick building with
a new, inviting outside entrance. The Hall of Fame's mission
is to "relive the history of the National Pastime, through
artifacts from historic records, to the plaques of the game's
greatest players in the Hall of Fame Gallery," according
to its literature. Once inside, that mission comes to life whether
it be the incredible New York Yankees displays, an Abbott and
Costsello "Who's on First," movie clip, a wonderful
baseball card display, or, of course, the memorable and historical
Hall of Fame where one can read plaques all day on all the great
players inducted into this illustrious museum.The Hall of Fame
and Museum has a wonderful library and an appealing park area,
perfect for a short stroll or yet another perspective on Otsego
Lake. The Hall of Fame and Museum is a must-see for the baseball
fan or anyone with an interest in history.
Taking a left on Main St. to Lower
Pioneer St. leaves you almost instantly alone as the busy pace
of the downtown tourist season gives way to the absolutely tranquil
Lakefront Park, with a multi-level stretch of land. The walk
down to Lakefront Park is a treasure with beautiful gardens in
front of splendid lakeside homes At Lakefront Park, you can sit
on a bench and see what the elderly Georgia man had experienced--that
is, Otsego Lake is more than just a body of water. It represents
a way of life for Cooperstown residents who appreciate the beauty
of their town. A great way to appreciate this beautiful lake
is taking an hour tour on the The Glimmerglass Queen Tour Boat
, which takes off from Lakefront Park, en route to a wonderfully
relaxing tour of Otsego Lake and views of all the great rolling
hills and greener-than-green lands.
At the end of Lake St. near Lakefront
Park, take the steep stairs to the Clinton Dam, a wonderfully
serene area where the beginning of the Susquehanna River meets
Otsego Lake. With a small park area, perfect for sunning, and
an even more peaceful aura than Lakefront Park, the Clinton Dam,
while not a well-known spot to tourists, is highly recommended
as a great example of Cooperstown beauty.
Lodging
Some great Cooperstown Village homes
of yesteryear are now bed and breakfasts and inns, our favorites
being the Cooperstown Bed and Breakfast, the Inn at Cooperstown
and Nelson Avenue Pines. The Cooperstown Bed and Breakfast is
advertised as "a warm, comfortable 1902 Victorian home filled
with delicious homemade breakfasts, scones and cookies welcomes
you, only three blocks from the Hall of Fame." Just a short
walk to Main St., the Cooperstown Bed and Breakfast certainly
lives up to its billing, and beyond. Owners John and Linda Smirk
represent what makes Cooperstown such a special place. They are
warm, kind, caring people, and that is well relfected in their
sparkling, three-story Victorian. We particularly enjoy the great
conversations with the Smirks and their guests. The second floor
porch is quaint and romantic, a perfect place to sip a cup of
tea and read a book. The back room is perfect for children, with
a nice stretch of space and plenty of toys. When staying at the
Cooperstown Bed and Breakfast, one realizes that people like
the Smirks are a reason Cooperstown is so special. Businesses
come alive when the owners care about their product. From the
well-maintained rooms to the delicious chocolate chip cookies,
the Cooperstown Bed and Breakfast is an instant Cooperstown memory.
It is our top choice when staying in Cooperstown.
The Inn at Cooperstown is the perfect inn. The rooms, so classy but
informal, make for a great night's sleep. The dining and living
room area evoke a more elaborate version of the old-time feeling
of your grandparent's house. Everywhere you look there is a nuance
that sticks in your mind, long after returning home. The Victorian
furnishings, antiques, a fireplace, the comfy couches, and old-fashioned
chairs make one want to stay indoors all day long. The long front
porch, with its wonderful rocking chairs, gently puts everything
in perspective by allowing you to unwind in the grand Cooperstown
Village atmosphere. Perspective can be gained here as everyday
life -- high-rises, rush hours, cell phones and other aspects
of the ironic use of the word, "civilization" --seems
secondary to the slower pace and grace of this Chestnut St. location.
The Nelson Avenue Pines
is close to Otsego Lake and all Main Street activities. A stunning
1870s Victorian set to Country French decor and antiques, the
Nelson Avenue Pines is located on a street (Nelson Ave., of course)
of magnificent large homes, close to Main St. The Nelson Avenue
Pines is spotless on the inside with some very pleasant rooms,
including a full third floor for families and others wanting
more space. Owner Penny Gentile is a gracious host and one of
the nicest people you will ever meet. She knows how to run a
bed and breakfast, and more, impotantly she truly loves the work
she does -- that makes the stay delightful. The Nelson Avenue
Pines is kid-friendly, and offers perhaps the best breakfast
in town, with incredible aromas of freshly roasted coffee, daily baked delicacies,
and house specialties of crepes, Belgian waffles, or French toast
a l'orange, as well as a great tropical fruit salad.
The Landmark Inn is a great example
of stately Victorian architecture, residing on a large (and pretty)
Chesnut St. lot. Recently remodeled (it was great before that),
the Landmark Inn, built in 1856, offers first-class accomodations
set to high ceilings, exposed cherry and chestnut floors in the
living room, dining room, and guest rooms, a grand staircase,
internal and external flourishes with every step, a wonderful
backyard perfect for outdoor receptions, and a short walk to
the downtown. We have not been to the Landmark under its new
ownership, but look forward to doing so. Past owners Linda and
Bob Schuermann ran the Inn beautifully with warmth, grace and
professionalism. Word is new ownership has kept that magic combination
and an eye for restoration, which is good news for those looking
at staying at, pardon the pun, a true "landmark" in
Cooperstown.
Dining
The Doubleday Cafe, Cooperstown Diner
and TJ's Grille capture the pulse of Cooperstown with locals
talking with each other and visitors grabbing a bit in between
their scheduled day. Neither locals or visitors will be disappointed
with the food, especially at the Doubleday, which has a knack
of going beyond good "grub" and venturing into some
sophisticated and ultimately well done dinners. It may be a great
place for a burger, but it's even better for a marinated vegetable
dish or seafood special of the day.
The Cooperstown Diner is so small you
have to go outside to change your mind, but the small dining
room offers big-time meals. One taste of the chicken and biscuits
makes one realize that homestyle cooking can still be done effectively
when eating out. Hearty breakfasts, nice lunches and a few dinner
selections make the Cooperstown Diner a fine, family-oriented
place.
TJ's Grille is open from the early
morning hours to late at night. It's kid-friendly, loud and has
a huge selection of breakfast, lunch and dinner items. The big
picture windows allow one to see Main St. in action. TJ's atmosphere
is fun with multi-colored lights, big screen televisions, baked
goods to take out, pinball games, and a gift shop almost as big
as the restaurant. Here, you can find Cooperstown souvenirs and
other appealing gifts.
On the somewhat more upscale side,
Hoffman Lane Bistro is tucked away on, surprise, Hoffman Lane,
a pleasant, narrow Village sidestreet leading to Otsego Lake.
Hoffman Lane Bistro sports multi-level dining, a great fireplace
in the bar area, and "cool" music playing in the background
-- blues, hippie music, one-hit wonders from the 1970s, etc.
The food is top-notch, especially the innovative versions of
meatloaf, pasta, and salmon. The atmosphere is laid-back and
the service always thoughtful, enthusiastic and professional.
There's always a culinary twist at Hoffman's; they never disappoint.
The Hawkeye Bar and Grille is our top
Cooperstown Village dining choice. Located in the stunning Otesega
Hotel -- a Federal-style piece of architecture featuring incredible
30-foot columns, an elegant interior, the magnificent Leahterstocking
Golf Course, and huge outside porches with rocking chairs overlooking
the 700 feet of lakefront -- the Hawkeye Bar and Grille, open
for lunch and dinner, serves the best steak, seafood and chicken
dishes in town. Contrary to the upscale Hotel, the Hawkeye Bar
and Grille is informal, and in some areas, has a clear and beautiful
view of Otsego Lake. The melange of New England seafood ( Shrimp,
Scallops, Lobster and Littleneck Clams Served over Linguini Pasta
with a Tomato Basil Vinaigrette) is as good as anything served
in New England as the seafood and pasta are equally fresh and
combine to make a truly exceptional dish. Another fine choice
is the rack of lamb with a zinfandel reduction -- this is so
tasty, you might want to come back one more time during your
vacation to sample this excellent entree.
On the Village outskirts
and beyond
Walking nearly outside
the village will bring you to another source of enjoyment, The
Farmer's Museum which portrays rural life in early times. An
herbal pharmacy, blacksmithing, weaving, printing, stickball
games, music, farming, -- with many different animals -- and
more make for a lively afternoon. Unlike other places of this
ilk, it's not forced or hokey. Everything seems authentic. Virtually
across the street is the Fenimore
House Museum, "home to one of the country's premier folk
art collections, and now the American Indian Wing with a dazzling
collection and galleries 'any museum in the world would envy.'"
(The New York Times). The Fenimore Museum also has great kids
activities; we particularly enjoyed the gingerbread house-making
class. So did the kids.
The museums attracts visitors year
round for special events such as Candlelight Evening in December.
The Candlelight evening represents the true essence of the holiday
season with a beautiful Christmas tree, musical performances
by local schools, delicious wassail, a wonderful Santa Claus
telling great childrens' stories, horse-drawn carriage rides,
warm, comfort food in the tavern, thousands of lights illuminating
the beautiful countryside, and beautiful voices either singing
holiday songs. The weather might be cold, but the feeling is
ultimately warm at this grand event.
Also outside the village is the superb
Blue Mingo Grille. The
Blue Mingo creates such fine cuisine that it competes with the
unbelievably beautiful setting on Lake Otsego.
The scenic boatyard,
and the amazingly fresh air would be worth the price of admission
even if the Blue Mingo served the worst fast food. They don't
and that is a good thing.On our memorable night, we sampled a
healthy green salad (translated: no iceberg), bourbon berry baby
back ribs and a herb flavored sea bass that rank somewhere in
our top five best meals, including some pretty well known choices
in Boston, Mass., and Quebec City, Quebec.The menu changes frequently
and is brought to you on a chalkboard by the waitstaff. Regarding
the waitstaff, we found them to be always courteous, right there
when needed, and very friendly. The Blue Mingo is located in
a boatyard a few miles from the Cooperstown.You have to enter
through a gift and clothing shop before finding the soothing
environment of the Blue Mingo. From that point on, the night
is there to remember long after you've left this incredible lakeside
restaurant.
A few miles down the
road, hugging the shores of Otsego Lake, is the Glimmerglass Opera, a world class company,
attracting 32,000 patrons each season to its beautiful Alice
Busch Opera Theater on Otsego Lake.
Glimmerglass State Park, 10 minutes
out of Cooperstown Village and at the other end of Lake Otsego,
is a model of how state parks should be run. Clean, well-maintained
and ultimately beautiful, Glimmerglass State Park has a fine
swimming beach in the summer, great cross country skiing and
vast open land to roam any time of the year. The fresh air is
enough to make one want to move instantly to this region. Next
to Glimmerglass State Park is the beautiful Hyde Hall. Hyde Hall
promotional literature accurately says it all: "Hyde Hall
is a stunning reminder of a bygone American era when families
of English aristocracy established vast estates in the former
colonies. The house itself may well be the finest example of
neoclassic country mansions anywhere in America. Roger Kennedy
of the Smithsonian writes that Hyde Hall is "a great house,
architecturally, and a social document of the first importance."
The late former Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynihan called Hyde Hall
"one of the most remarkable buildings in America."
A ride into the country will not disappoint
either, particularly Fly Creek. A five minute drive over the
hill on Route 28 (from Chestnut Street), Fly Creek charms with
the down-to-earth, find-it-all-here Fly Creek General Store,
some great homes with views of the valley and the Fly Creek Cider
Mill. The Cider Mill is a turn-of-the-century water-powered mill
with delicious apple cider, great box lunches (wonderful pulled
pork and homemade pies), a picnic area, extensive two-story gift
shop, and Fly Creek where kids can feed the ducks. The Fly Creek
Cider Mill is rural American business at its best -- a viable,
well-run operation where all employees work hard to ensure customers
have fun and come away with good products. You simply can't get
better cider anywhere else.
Surrounding villages like Richfield
Springs, Cherry Valley and Springfield have scenic rural beauty,
some nice antique shops, and lack of development that breeds
a sense of pride that the past can somehow be maintained in today's
much fast-paced world.These types of villages are worth visiting
as a complement to your Cooperstown vacation.
Someday whether it's a permanent or
summer home, we envision ourselves sitting hand-in-hand on a
Lakefront Park bench staring at the marvelous lake. and saying
or thinking the words,"This is nice." The words
already play in our mind everytime we think of Cooperstown, America's
most perfect village.
Note: All photos on this page taken by Eric H.
For more information on a Cooperstown
vacation, contact the Cooperstown
Chamber of Commerce, 31 Chestnut St. Cooperstown, NY 13326
Phone: (607) 547-9983 Fax: (607) 547-6006
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New! Your gateway to Cooperstown, N.Y., travel --
VisitingCooperstown.com
Brand new from the VisitingNewEngland.com
family is VisitingCooperstown.com.
Add to your New England vacation by visiting the lovely Village
of Cooperstown, N.Y., just two hours from the Massachusetts border.
VisitingCooperstown.com is your professional Cooperstown travel
and vacation guide, including information on Otsego Lake, the
Baseball Hall of Fame and the Farmer's Museum, as well as a stunning
photo
essay gallery -- all told from the perspective of tourists!
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| Cooperstown NY lodging choices |
The White House Inn, Cooperstown, N.Y.
The White House Inn provides the comforts
of home, the elegance of fine lodgings, gracious hospitality,
and the convenience of parking on site and walking to local attractions.
Enjoy the seclusion of the private garden with an in ground pool.
On cool evenings, relax by the fireplace in the gathering room
with TV, VCR, movies, and games, or retreat to the parlor with
a good book.
More info on the White House Inn, including
availability and reservations
Lake View Motel. Cooperstown, NY
Relax and enjoy comfort surrounded
by the timeless beauty of Cooperstown and Otsego Lake. Guest
rooms, suites, and cottages are individually appointed, with
personal attention paid to every detail amidst a charming country
atmosphere. Capture the breathtaking views of Otsego Lake while
enjoying our lakefront which offers swimming, fishing, paddle
boats, or just relaxing on the sundeck.
More information of the Lake View Motel, including
availability and reservations
Best Western Inn and Suites, Cooperstown, NY
Our Best Western is ideally situated-nestled
in the heart of Leatherstocking Country and Central New York
State. We are located just a few minutes from the Village Of
Cooperstown where you will find quaint shops, fine dining and
of course The National Baseball Hall Of Fame.
More information on Best Western Inn and Suites,
including availability and reservations
Hayden Creek Inn, Cooperstown, NY
The 150-Year-old Hayden Creek Inn is
a private retreat in Cooperstown, NY. Guests can experience the
ambience of an old inn, in a newly renovated and tastefully decorated
setting.
More information on the Hayden Creek Inn, including
availability and reservations
Hickory Grove Inn, Cooperstown, NY
On Lake Otsego, six miles from central
Cooperstown and only two miles from the Glimmerglass Opera, rests
The Inn At Hickory Grove. The surrounding area is abundant with
fishing and hunting opportunities, and nature trails traverse
the property. Built in 1830, entering the Inn is like taking
a step back in time. Earthy and warm, the rustic charm of the
property provides a peaceful atmosphere for guests to unwind.
More information on the Hickory Grove Inn,
including availability and reservations
Contact info of places mentioned
in article:
Bassett
Healthcare, One Atwell
Road, Cooperstown, NY 13326 · 607.547.3456
1.800.BASSETT
The
Blue Mingo Grill
6098 St Hwy 80 - (607)547-7496
Clark Sports Center
PO Box 850; Location: Susquehanna Avenue - (607)547-2800
Cooperstown
Bed & Breakfast
88 Chestnut Street - (607)547-2532
Cooperstown Diner
136 1/2 Main Street - (607)547-9201
Danny's Main Street Market
92 Main Street - (607)547-4053
Davidson's Jewelry/Augur's Bookstore
73 Main Street - (607)547-5099
The Doubleday Café
93 Main Street - (607)547-5468
Ellsworth & Sill - Ladies Fashions
79 Main Street - (607)547-9277
The
Farmers' Museum
PO Box 30; Location: St Hwy 80 Lake Road - (607)547-1450
Fenimore
Art Museum
PO Box 800; Location: St Hwy 80 Lake Road - (888)547-1450
Fly
Creek Cider Mill and Orchard
288 Goose Street, Fly Creek, NY 13337 - (607)547-9692
Glimmerglass
Opera
PO Box 191; Location: 7300 St Hwy 80 - (607)547-2255
Glimmerglass State Park
1527 Co Rte 31 - (607)547-8662
Hoffman Lane Bistro
2 Hoffman Lane - (607)547-7055
Hyde
Hall
PO Box 721; Location: Mill Road - (607)547-5098
The
Inn at Cooperstown
16 Chestnut Street - (607)547-5756
Landmark
Inn
64 Chestnut Street - (607)547-7225
National
Baseball Hall of Fame and Museum
25 Main Street - (888)425-5633
Nelson
Avenue Pines
20 Nelson Avenue - (607)547-7118
The
Otesaga Resort Hotel /Hawkeye Grill
PO Box 311; Location: 60 Lake Street, Route 80 - (800)348-6222
Schneider's Bakery Inc.
157 Main Street - (607)547-9631
Willis Monie Books
139 Main Street - (607)547-8363
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